The Commodification of Fashion Week in the Era of the Influencer
As we move towards the beginning of spring, we are entering every fashion enthusiast’s favorite time of year: We are in the midst of Fashion Month, and it feels like an absolute whirlwind. This is one of the busiest times of the year as fashion week in New York ushered in the rest of the big four: London, Paris, and Milan fashion weeks. In the past few years, there has been a noticeable change in how Fashion Week generally works. Some industry professionals have come to believe New York Fashion Week is no longer a place for simply fashion professionals to network. It is now the place to “be seen” or noticed, especially for those who work in influencer marketing. This apparent infiltration might ruffle feathers between fashion enthusiasts, industry workers, and influencers who are there to keep up their experience. Is New York Fashion Week being commodified? If so, what can be done to ensure that the essence and spirit of Fashion Week is maintained?
new york, london, paris, and milan: the big four
It’s unclear exactly how fashion week started, but fashion shows have been part of society's calendars since the early 1900s. The consensus among industry professionals is that Fashion Week as we know it started as “Press Week” in 1943 by a publicist named Eleanor Lambert. She went on to found the Council of Fashion Designers of America, which centralized New York’s fashion events in 1993. This is what we know now as “New York Fashion Week.”
Differently, London Fashion Week began in 1984, and has a more clear-cut history. It went on to be clustered by the British Fashion Council and was called “London Fashion Week.” Milan Fashion Week was founded and organized in 1958 by the National Chamber for Italian Fashion, and they still host many of the Milan Fashion Week events today. Distinctly, bigger fashion houses (like Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Gucci, etc) show independently. Lastly, the earliest known record of Paris Fashion Week is in 1945. Paris has two fashion weeks: haute couture (high fashion) and prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) shows. The version of Paris Fashion Week that we know today was organized by the French Fashion Federation in 1973 at the Palace of Versailles. The Federation still oversees the main fashion week events in Paris.
Honorable Fashion Week Mentions
Since fashion is not exclusive to any single city, over the last decade, more iterations of fashion week have sprung up across the globe. The three biggest ones that professionals like to acknowledge are in Berlin, Shanghai, and Copenhagen. Shanghai Fashion Week happens biannually after being established in 2001. Berlin has its fashion week twice a year after being established in July 2007. Copenhagen fashion week was established in 2006 by the Danish Fashion Institute. Even more recently, Lagos Fashion Week was established as an annual event in 2011, and is becoming a more important powerhouse for fashion celebration and development in Africa. As the fashion industry grows, more and more cities will likely join in with their versions of fashion week as a place for industry professionals to meet and connect.
How is FAshion Week being Commodified?
In recent years, particularly with the rise of TikTok, New York Fashion Week has sparked controversy over its increasing appeal to influencers and social media personalities—many of whom have little to no connection to the fashion industry. Once an exclusive space for industry professionals, designers, press, and buyers, Fashion Week is now frequently criticized for prioritizing viral moments over genuine industry engagement. Some fashion insiders lament the shift, arguing that the event has strayed from its original purpose: to showcase designers’ work, foster creativity, and facilitate essential business transactions. Instead, brands seem more focused on filling front rows with high-follower influencers who generate online buzz but contribute little to the larger fashion conversation. This commodification of Fashion Week, driven by a desire for publicity rather than industry relevance, raises concerns about the dilution of its prestige and the long-term impact on the fashion ecosystem.
Another significant issue is how the influx of influencers and non-professionals can undermine the artistic integrity and cultural significance of Fashion Week. When the focus shifts toward creating viral moments rather than celebrating the creative work of designers, the very essence of what Fashion Week represents is at risk. Instead of offering a platform for innovation and artistry, it becomes a stage for self-promotion, where the spectacle of the event sometimes overshadows the fashion itself. This shift may alienate traditional fashion aficionados—buyers, stylists, and industry veterans—who seek to engage with the clothing and craftsmanship rather than the influencers and their social media strategies. By centering Fashion Week on personal branding and instant gratification, there’s a real concern that the event could lose its status as a key moment for authentic fashion discourse.
final thoughts
The future of Fashion Week feels uncertain, and while it’s amazing to see such excitement from all kinds of fashion lovers— whether they’re professionals or passionate fans— some concerning shifts are happening behind the scenes. One of the biggest issues is how the fashion press is being treated in comparison to influencers. At a time when genuine expertise and critical voices are essential, it’s troubling to see that many press members are being deprioritized in favor of influencers with large social media followings. This shift, where the focus is more on generating buzz than on meaningful commentary, raises questions about what Fashion Week’s future will look like. As the industry continues to evolve, it’s important to consider the role of press and professionals in shaping the fashion conversation. What do you think about these changes? Slide into the DMs @itgirlarchive__ on Instagram. I’d love to hear your thoughts!